The Help Line

Have a question about your Model "A" or Model "A" related subject? E-mail it to matrader@modelatrader.com and we'll post it here. If you can supply an answer, we'll include it after the question.

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1930 Closed Cab Pickup Top (Posted 11/18/2004) Two years ago I bought a late 1930 Ford Model A Closed Cab Pickup. I am trying to put a top on it. I have the vinyl material, padding, top molding (doomed steel), and side molding. I have a metal sunvisor. It looks like the molding was screwed into the rear of the visor. Would the molding be underneath the vinyl in this case or on top? The rear has a wide band that I assume covered where the vinyl was tacked down. Right?

When you open the door you see the wood. Is there something that is supposed to cover it? Thanks for having patience with me. Larry ditvenet@ezsg.com


Replacesment Paint Colors for the 1931 Town Car (Posted 11/18/2004) Can anyone help me with the replacement paint spec to duplicate the original two green colors on the 1931 Model A Town Car?

J. Emory Clotfelter, President
Image Works, Inc.
eclotfelter@imageworks4signs.com
804-798-5533 x223
804-798-5582 FAX


Sedan Delivery Conversion (Posted 11/18/2004). Can anyone help me to the manufacturer of a Tudor Sedan to a Sedan Delivery kit. George Porto gaporto8770@snet.net


1928 Special Coupe Rumble Seat Questions (Posted 11/18/2004). Need to know the location of rumble seat pedestal, also seat back stops?? Thank you, Larry. AutoDecadence@aol.com (303)789-1433


1930 Tudor Sedan Roof Problem (Posted 11/18/2004). I´m writing from Spain, I´m restoring my 1930 Model A Tudor 55B and repairing the body. The body is separated from the frame and I have the following problem:

During the post-war era here in Spain the cars that survived the war were used until the 1960s. These cars suffered many modifications and were drastically changed from their original state. My car is one of them and the roof has been reinforced with sheet metal, there is also a luggage rack on top of the roof. The original roof is of soft construction in the middle. In my case, this soft portion has been substituted for sheet metal and consequently its union with the sun visor isn´t what it should be. Before starting the restoration, I bought all the books I felt were the best and I found many answers to many problems but this one I haven´t been able to resolve.

I will need a close-up photo (view) of this area (where the sun visor and roof meet) of an original 1930 Model A Tudor 55B. I also need to see the construction details of the roof above and across the wood header (the visor fitting and welt visor and the finishing of the section closest to the sun visor under what should be the artificial leather top cover). In reference to my roof, I have other questions but I´ll wait till someone responds before I fire more. Thanks so much. PEPE juliebeyel@yahoo.com


Pickup Rear Bumper and Brackets (Posted 06/30/2004) - I am currently restoring a 1931 Model A Roadster pickup and I have it about 90 percent done. One problem I am having that I cannot get past is the rear bumper. I cannot figure out how the brackets mount to the truck and how the bumper itself mounts to the brackets. If anybody out there could send me a diagram or provide some kind of insight on how to install these parts, I would greatly appreciate it . Thank you very much. Ftct61@aol.com. Also have a fax number. If someone could fax me this info, I would appreciate it. FAX 410/452-8795.


Classic Auto Appraiser (Posted 01/16/2004) - I couldn't find a certified classic or antique auto appraiser in the Atlanta area, so I'm wondering how do you become certified? I know how to appraise the Model A since I've been fooling around with them for 30 years. All I could find in the Atlanta area was insurance damage appraisers. If anyone there can advise me, I'd like to get certified. It seems like there is a need for it here. Thanks, Randy Mincey rmincey@wans.net


Clutch Judder/Chatter (Posted 09/09/2003) - I have a 1930 Ford Model A Town Sedan. Recently the clutch has developed a considerable judder so I will have to dismantle it to fix the problem. I would be grateful to anyone who can advise me on the correct procedure and sequence of this operation. I also hear that a V8 clutch is better and easy to install. Can any one advise? Many thanks.Vic, New Zealand vbrick@paradise.net.nz


Spindle base design change (Posted 11/27/2001). I was questioned about the date the change was made from the round based spindles to the rectangular based spindles. My January 1, 1928 Parts Price List Book shows the part no. to be A-3105. My October 1, 1928 Parts Price List Book also shows the same part no and picture as the Jan. 1 Book. Both of my AR's are very early. In the past I had a original July 1928 Phaeton ( only 58,000 miles) and it had the later rectangular spindles. Could you please help me out ? Thanks for your attention to this matter. You can reach me at ronjean@inreach.com or telephone me at (530) 283-0768. Ron Rude, 47201 Old Hwy. Rd., Quincy, CA 95971


1929 Tudor seats and upholstery (Posted 10/22/2001). I have recently bought a 1929 Ford "A" Tudor (2 doors) to restore, but it has no seats, both rear and front. Besides, all interior upholster has been replaced by some kind of plastic. Can anybody can help me to know how this model looked originally, and where I can get seat pictures (both springs and frame). I am afraid I shall have to build them. Thank you in advance, Adrian adrian_ferrero_ar@yahoo.com.ar


1930 Town Sedan Tail Light mounting holes (Posted 10/22/2001) Does anyone have a template or the mounting hole dimensions for mounting the tail lights on a 1930 Town Sedan. I need the measurements for both the passenger and drive side lights. Thanks. Dianne Kory, 847/480-2744 or E-mail to matrader@modelatrader.com


I am restoreing two Smith Gordon compressors (Posted 10/17/2001). Does anyone out there have the same? Dan Von Holten, danvonholtne@yahoo.com


Huckster Information (Posted 10/17/2001) I am trying to locate dimensions, drawings, or blueprints for a 1928 Huckster Wagon. Can you let me know if anything like this is available. Thanks. Woodie4U1928@aol.com


Generator to Alternator Conversion (Posted 12/28/2000) Has anyone used a stock '28 generator body and made a 6 volt, positive ground alternator, fit inside it? I have heard that the powerhouse hs been fitted this way but haven't heard of the later ones being converted in this fashion. Let me know, and thanks for the site! Jack Remillard jpremillard@oregontrail.net


Electrical Problem (Posted 12/28/2000) I own a professionally restored 1928 Sport Coupe that has some sort of electrical problem. If I turn on my headlights I get a 10 amp discharge. My ammeter stays at 0 at all times (even when I rev the engine to 1800 rpms). I had the the generator rebuilt and purchased a new cut-out (with a diode in it). It didn't make any difference. I can remove both battery cables while the care is running and it will continue to run fine.

I've checked voltage at the battery and the generator with the car off and it reads 6.2 volts. When I start the car and perform the same test, my digital volt meter jumps all over the place and will not give me any type of accurate reading. I can also move the 3rd brush on the generator and my amp gauge in the car will not move from 0.

I've owned the car for 2 months now and did not have any problems driving it around until the one time I attempted to use the headlights. I got 1-1/2 miles down the road before everything just shut down. To be honest I did not pay any attention to the ammeter to see if in ever got off of a 0 charge state.

Any suggestions where to look next would be appreciated. Sincerely, Patrick Smith psmith@clipper.net


Phaeton top and window panels (Posted 01/15/2001) Looking for information on the best way to clean the cloth top on a Phaeton. Also how to clean/restore the isinglass window panels. Thanks. John matrader@modelatrader.com


Script Shop Coat (Posted 12/28/2000) I recently saw advertised a nifty script shop coat to wear when tinkering on the "old Ford." Now I can't find the source. Anyone know who handles these shop coats? Let me know at driver_ed_guy@yahoo.com Thanks! John Sawyer


Model "A" Speedometer (Posted 12/28/2000) I have a Model A speedometer in good condition. What is it worth ? I found it in my attic. Thanks, Forrest West FWest19516@cs.com


Model "A" Reproductions (Posted 10/19/2000) Do you know of any place that makes Ford Model "A" reproductions? I am looking for a place for my Dad, who thinks there is some place in California that makes reproductions. Thanks very much, Mike Moon, Ionia, MI. mjay@iserv.net


Truck Color Scheme (Posted 10/19/2000) I'm restoring a Model "A" one ton truck and need to know if anyone knows where to find the colors that were originally used. Any help will be appreciated. Keith kfaust2@yahoo.com


Car Won't Start (Posted 10/19/2000) I recently purchased a 1930 Model "A" 4 door. The first day I drove it (about 100 miles) it ran like a top although it seemed to leak oil everytime I shut it off. One time it must have leaked more than a cup of engine oil. I checked the oil and it was always full or a little above full. The next day I got about a half mile from home and it died. (one loud backfire). It wouldn't fire at all although the odor of gasoline was strong. I pulled the plugs (a little black) and reset the points. With the distributor cap off, I watched the points as my wife stepped on the starter. I could see sparks around the points.

When the fuel valve is opened, gas runs freely from the disconnected fuel line. I always retard the spark fully and pull the throttle about half way down. I pull the choke out and release it when it fires. I was successfull with this proceedure a couple times. After it had run about a minute, I started advancing the spark a little and then it would die and then would absolutely refuse to fire again. I haven't checked the timing yet. I will do that next but this seems remote to me since it ran so well the previous day. Any suggestions???? Herb Meyer hmeyer@sacs.k12.in.us


Model "A" Car Covers (Posted 10/19/2000) I'd like to buy a custom cover for our Model "A." Where do I do that besides the standard covers through JC Whitney? Janet Franklin JHF72@aol.com


1929 Cabriolet Convertible w/Briggs Body (Posted 10/19/2000) I have a 1929 Model"A" Cabriolet convertible with a Briggs body. It's original with some restoration; I put a new naugahide top, but the upholstery is the original houndstooth fabric. Rumble seat is original upholstery. Body and Engine Numbers A1589650. Would anyone know a ballpark figure on value? Does anyone have any info on Briggs bodies and parts for them. SleepyHollow1963@aol.com


Business Coupe vs Sport Coupe (Posted 10/19/2000) I'm the owner of a 1928 Model "A"Business Coupe. I am in the process of rebuilding the motor and am trying to decide if I should completely restore the car. My question is: How much is a restored Business Coupe on the market compared to a Sports Coupe. I'm trying to decide if I should change my Business Coupe into a Sports Coupe. Thanks for your help, Tim timothywharter@onlyinternet.net


Sagging doors (Posted 10/19/2000) I have a 1928 Model "A" Closed Cab Pickup. Both of the doors sag down about 3/4" at the rear. I have been told that I need to shim the body to get them to align properly. However, the person that told me this was unsure as to just where to do the shimming. Where do I place the shims? Thanks in advance. Frisco frisco@friscosoldies.com


4 Wheel Drive Chassis Posted (10/19/2000) What kind of 4wd chassis will fit under a "AA" Ford truck body? marknjudy1051@yahoo.com


Conversion Kit (Posted 08/29/2000) Does any one know where I can buy a conversion kit to change a tudor sedan into a sedan delivery? I have seen it done but can't find a kit. bohollow@fidnet.com


1931 Cabriolet Reproduction (Posted 08/29/2000) I have a friend in England who owns a reproduction of a 1931 Ford Model "A" Cabriolet, believed to have been made in the late 1960s or early 1970s by Classic Industries, Inc., of West Palm Beach, Florida, for Disney Productions. He forwarded me a serial number and other information about the car in an attempt to learn the exact date of manufacture, but I have unable to track down the company in West Palm Beach. Any help would be appreciated. John Havas, Vero Beach, FL havasj@attglobal.net


Race Car Frame and Rear End (Posted 08/29/2000) A friend of mine has just acquired what used to be a Model "A" race car frame and rear end assembly. The gentleman he got it from referred to it as an "upright modified." Anyone ever heard of such an animal??? Any web sites or pictures??? Thanks in advance, Dave Birdwell MrLS6454@aol.com


Generator Not Charging (Posted 08/29/2000) I can't figure out why my 1930 Tudor's generator will not charge. The ammeter is o.k. Any ideas? Thanks Chuck Henry szivihenry@AOL.com


Oil Splash Cups (Posted 08/29/2000) I removed the oil pan from the motor and noticed that the oil splash cups on the rod caps are pointing in different directions, seems wrong to me. Would appreciate any help. Thanks, Lon tlzoo@mediaone.net

Answer from Don Snyder, Snyantique@aol.com. The oil cups on the model A rods are meant to scoop the oil and force it into the bearing. If you are standing in front of your car, the crankshaft is turning in a clockwise direction. Therefore your open side of the oil scoops should be towards the passenger side of the car.


Light Switch Problems (Posted 08/22/2000) I am having a hard time keeping the light switch free floating in the column. It keeps grounding out the electrical system as I turn the wheel. The switch is closer to the 9 o'clock position on the steering wheel, but I think it should be closer to the 6 o'clock position. I would like to get as much info as possible regarding the whole switch assembly from the steering wheel down to the base of the steering column. Thank you very much. John Proulx Funster664@aol.com


Transmission Change (Posted 08/22/2000) I have a problem with my Model A, the car is very good condition to ride, but this year and for rest of my life I have muscular distrophy. I'm not in good condition to drive with the clutch and the original transmission Model A, I lost strenght in my legs. I would like to know if I can to do something with my Model A. If I can to change the Transmission Model A for automatic. Or it's necessary to change all, motor and rear end, to put a modern motor and a special rear end. Please can you answer my request, it's will be appreciated. I'm from Canada, Quebec. Thanks, Eric ericlucie@achilles.net


Tail Light Location (Posted 08/21/2000) I am just about finished restoring my 1929 Model A Tudor. I need to know the dimensions where to install the tail lights on both fenders. Thank You. Joe Farinacci jfar@home.com


Horn Button and Headlight Switch Removal (Posted 08/22/2000) Does anyone know how to remove the horn button and headlight switch? I have a 1930 Coupe and need to replace the wiring harness leading up the steering column to the light switch. I don't see an obvious way to remove the button/switch. Thanks. John Picklo. thepicks@tir.com


Model A Owner Star (Posted 06/07/2000) I have a Model A Ford Owner star made out of brass. It is a tiny bit over 3 1/2" across and 6 points. Does anyone have any idea when this was made? Were they given to people when they purchased a Model A? Any information would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you all, Paul Ellifritz fritz@gj.net


Electrical Problem (Posted 06/07/2000) My name is Michael Wymer. I own a 1929 Tudor Sedan. I had to replace the speedometer and the radiator in my car this spring. When I did, I hooked up the electrical system and burned up my horn. I have been trying to track down the cause of the short, but have had no luck. The car never had electrical problems before now. There is no one around here close to receive information from about this problem. Could the headlights or the horn be giving me trouble? I have also in the process, changed out the light switch body and the wiring harness. I am lost as to where to go now. Is there anyone near my location (Marion, Ohio), that could offer advice or help in this matter? Thank you. Michael Wymer nascar1@marion.net


Murray Parts - What Are They Worth? (Posted 05/30/2000) I have in my possesion a Murray body for parts, 4 doors, frt., rear and misc. Wood is bad but metal is good. Would like some help on what it's worth - just ballpark. Any help would be greatly appreciated. DAVLORINC@aol.com


Body Number and Data Plate location (Posted 05/17/2000) I have a 1929 Closed Cab Pickup and need to replace the body number and data plate. Can anyone tell me where these should be located? Thanks. Any help would be appreciated. Larry lalkie@quixnet.net


1931 "AA" Mail Truck - Need pictures and info (Posted 05/17/2000) I need help! I purchased a large 1-1/2 ton 1932 Model "AA" Ford Mail Truck (It actually is a 1931 truck that was sold in 1932.) I need pictures or any kind of info so I can restore this Mail Truck. It is all there and I have to disassemble and replace the wood. I also have an extra frame, transmission, wheels, axles, front end, and rear end. Please contact me if you can help me with info or pictures. Tony Torre. 440/352-2834


Farm Buggy Gear Box (Posted 04/30/2000) I just disassembled a Ford Model A "farm buggy." The rear-axle that had been put into it is a worm-drive with 20" wheels and what appears to be an in-line, perhaps planetary gearbox that bolts directly to the rear-axle. It has two shifters with the name "Twin High Low" on it. It was hooked to a car (not truck) Model A universal joint/transmission/engine. Can someone tell me what the unit comes from? John de Marrais john@newyorkstateresearch.com


Leaky Gas Tank (Posted 04/28/2000) My friend's Model A has developed some blistered paint at the point where the steering wheel attaches to the gas tank. He suspects it is from vibration. Is there a remedy for this problem? Many thanks for any and all consideration. Lanny Bertram lbertram1@pop3.smartworld.net.


Model "A" Speedometer Spindle Speeds (Posted 04/28/2000) I am restoring my Model A Ford Town Sedan 1930 Type 155-D. I found the speedometer completely stuck and had to dismantle it order to soak it in a degreaser for a couple of days. It is the oval speedometer made by Steward Warner. The instrument is fine now and free turning. My question is: Do you know the RPM for the main vertical spindle, say at 50 MPH road speed? The driving gear from the drive shaft has 4 teeth and the driven gear for the speedo cable has 19 teeth. I use the normal standard (1 to 3.78) ring and pinion set in the differential.

If I know the speed of the speedometer cable I will use a handdrill with variable speed to turn the speedometer and measure the revolutions with a digital counter. I have a feeling that the magnet in the spindle disk is weak and needs to be charged to indicate the poper speed, but first I need to know more calibration details.

Thanks and regards, Leen Muller The Netherlands Europe l.muller@hccnet.nl


Dissasembling Model "A" Shock Absorbers (Posted 04/28/2000) Can anyone tell me how to dissamble the original shock body without destroying the housing? I've gotten the lock ring loose, but have been unsuccessful in unscrewing the cover from the housing to access the seals, etc. inside. I've soaked the shock inside and out with WD40, placed housing in vise and attempted to unscrew with large channel locks, but it won't budge. I'm afraid to use heat on it. Sombody help me! Thanks. LarryBecknell@aol.com


Oil Leaks and Tune-Up Procedure (Posted 12/02/99) I would like to know what the procedure is for stopping oil from pouring out the rear of the engine. It is worse when idling, it runs out in a stream, and also the proper tune-up procedure and specs. ANY INFO WOULD BE OF GREAT HELP. Thanks, Dennis kelley3@ix.netcom.com


Sedan Delivery Dimensions (Posted 12/02/99) I'm trying to find the general outside dimensions (OAL, WEB, height, max. vertical, tire size, etc.) for a '31 Ford Model A Van. If I understand correctly, it was called a Sedan Delivery. I'd like to make a 1/4 or 1/6 scale pedal car for my grand daughters. If anyone could contribute any information at all, I would be most appreciative. Respectfully, J. Russell shubutton@dmci.net


Model "A" and "AA" Differences (Posted 11/23/99) I have a Model "AA" truck. I want to take cab, engine, etc and eventually build a Model A pick-up. I am going to buy a Model "A" frame. Are all Model "A" frames the same regardless of Coupe, Sedan, or Pickup? Is the cab the same on an "AA" as it is an "A"? Are there any problems that I may run into when doing this? Anyone interested in a Model "AA" Frame and running gear less engine and tranny? Grayfox876@aol.com


Seat Construction (Posted 04/23/99) I have a '29 Sport Coupe, and need to replace the seat bottom and back wood. What was in there is not original, and has been hand crafted. I have new wood and springs, however I need photos or diagrams of how the springs are attached to the wood, and how the wood attaches to metal. I have about 13 books, and none show any specifics. Thanks, Darrell k7iui@mcn.net


Bending Top Moulding (Posted 04/23/99) Is there an easy way to bend the top moulding (aluminum) that goes on the roof rear and sides of my '31 Coupe or should I use a vinyl welting (hide-em)? RAWASH@webtv.net


Rear Fender Braces (Posted 04/23/99) I have a '29 Sport Coupe, and the rear fender braces are missing! I bought new ones, but unsure how they are mounted in fender well. It appears the rear of the vehicle was once wrecked, and when they repaired the rear body they did not put the braces back, nor left holes where they attach to body. Any assistance would be appreciated. Darrell k7iui@mcn.net


Trunk/Rumble Seat (Posted 04/23/99) My '30 Coupe had both rumble and trunk parts in it. The inside rear panel was for the trunk with a rusted out rumble panel behind it. The new trunk sheet metal comes with an L-shaped support, slightly bent and with two holes on the long end and the large hole for the spare tire carrier on the short end. At least that's what I'm assuming the large hole is for.

Questions: Assuming that this part goes from the inside trunk panel to the upright on the outside panel, does the short end point up or down? Is it tack welded to the upright and riveted, bolted or tack welded to the inner panel. I'm stuck with no coupes with trunks around to look at. Jake mandator@sssnet.com


Bud Vases (Posted 03/04/99) Do you know of any source for bud vases suitable for a Model A, either antique or reproduction? George gcconant@psln.com


Six Speed Transmission (Posted 03/04/99) I recently purchased a Rocky mountain six speed from a gentlemen and am told that it will fit into my 1928 AA stake truck. It has the same six sided spline and the dimensions are right for installation. My question is, has anyone ever heard of one of these transmissions. Is there any old manuals out there describeing this aux transmission? I need to make the shifting linkage and any information would be appreciated. I understand these were manufactured as well for TTs. Sincerely, Larry Metzgar CerescoMG@AOL.com


Engine Numbers (Posted 03/04/99) I have a 1930 Model A sedan, I cannot date engine, # RF8553* hand stamped on engine boss. Any help or information on this would be appreciated. DL Standon freetrap@digisys.net


Ford Ranger Transmissions (Posted 03/04/99) I've heard that there is a place in Ohio that is installing Ford Ranger transmissions in Model A's. Have not been able to locate any more information. Do you have any information on this? Thanks! Joe pamandjoe@mci2000.com


Battery Box (Posted 03/04/99) I took the old one off 4 years ago and can't remember how to put the new one back on. Is it bolted to the frame and crossmember flanges such that flanges of the carrier are above or below the flanges of the frame and crossmember? Ya know, none of my reference material says squat about this. Jake Mandator mandator@sssnet.com


Rumble Seat/Trunk Conversion (Posted 03/04/99) I recently acquired a 1931 Ford Model A Coupe in fair condition. It is the rumble seat version, but has a regular truck lid (handle at the bottom). Since the top width is approximately 36 " and the bottom dimension is approximately 35 ", I cannot just "flip" the lid around (as I was told), so my problem is that I want to keep the standard deck lid and do away with the rumble seats because I would rather have the truck space than the seat cushions eating up my trunk space...Where do I get the top hinge mechanism for this? Thanks for your help. Jim Wolf, 220 N. Pardee Street, Wadsworth, Ohio 44281. (Voice:330-334-3776) / (Pager:330-290-8455) / (Fax:330-335-0032) jimwolf@bright.net


1931 Slantwindshield 4 door (Posted 03/04/99) We are starting to restore the inside of a 1931 Slantwindshield 4 door. Is there a frame for the back seat springs to sit in? Where can I find articles on restoring the interior? Bud Stewart bustewa@ibm.net


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