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I lost the use of my legs in a diving accident 3 years ago. I am interested in placing an automatic transmission, but still keeping the original Ford flathead engine. I heard of a guy using a 904 Dodge automatic transmission.
Do you have any suggestions or comments? Thanks, Lloyd Raifsnider hzrf62a@prodigy.com
I am looking for information about a cloth top that fits over the rumble seat to keep the passengers out of the elements. The only one I have ever seen is called a Tuck/Away, I am looking for any help- pictures, drawings, or even the real thing, any help would be appreciated. Bill Veitch Veitch@pacbell.net
I understand the rear floor board in a 1930 Town Sedan should not be flat (as on mine), but instead should be recessed. Does anyone know of a supplier of these floor boards (Synder's, Mac's, and Bratton's catalogs don't list them), or where I can get dimensional drawings of such a floorboard? Thanks in advance, Pat Patterson Ppatter@aol.com
I have a '31 Closed Cab Pickup. When driving at highway speeds there is no problem with noise (sqealing). However, when in a parade, and just crawling along, the brakes (front) will squeal loudly. It is really embarassing! I have cleaned the shoes with mineral spirits, adjusted and readjusted and forgive me but I had the drums turned. Any Ideas? Thanks. Richard Whittemore. Gufnut@aol.com
In the front end of the torque tube there should be the following: a C-ring, a roller bearing and sleeve, and a grease retainer. This grease retainer is the problem as I do not have so many pieces of it that I can reconstruct the actual size of it. Do you have any information that might help me here. Ib Christensen ihc@sks.dk
Jake Mandator replies, "I just finished rebuilding my torque tube. First, Snyder's catalog has a good diagram of where the parts fit. There is also a large washer between the bearing and the speedometer gear. By grease retainer I'm assuming you mean what I call the grease seal. These are available from most parts suppliers. I ruined one and took the part to a local Bearings Inc. store. For $.50 more, I got a better seal than the catalogs. The old seal has to be driven out from the transmission end and then reinstalled from the differential end. I used a threaded rod just smaller that the seal OD, a couple of heavy duty washers (I ruined the first seal with washers that were too thin and bent the seal) just smaller than the seal, and a couple of nuts to hold the washers in place. I've still got the box at home so if you need a part number, holler back." Jake mandator@timken.com
The summer of 1996 brought many wonderful things to Canada including the MAFCA International Convention in Toronto.
But, in Ottawa Ontario, August 8, 1996, a major rainstorm caused havoc and damage. This was sadly felt by Canada's Capital A's. It all happened in the space of 15 minutes. Canoes were seen in the streets, just to give you an idea of how deep the water rose. The club library was stored in the basement of a member who was on vacation at the time of the storm. He returned a few days later to find 4 feet of backed up sewage in the basement. The library was destroyed, as well as a Lebaron Bonney Interior kit and many boxed parts. Some larger "A" parts were recoverable, but not a pleasant task.
The library was not sophisticated, but it was always a source of reference and interest to club members. It included several "A" related hard covered books, some Audels New Automobile Guide, Dykes Automobile and Gasoline Engine Encyclopedia, and an extensive collection of Model "A" News and The Restorer.
The club received a small insurance settlement and is looking for reasonably priced replacements. Does anyone have a few - one or several - books or magazines to help with the rebuilding project? Thank you.
Please Contact: Ed Galea, 3 Bullock Avenue, Ottawa, Ontario Canada K1S 1G7. Telephone: 613/233-5705
This Notice sponsored by Grampa's Garage/John Cruise
1. I need to know how to fix my Wolf Whistle. When I pull the wire, all it does is suck air. I'm not sure how they work. If anyone has any info, or knows how to maintain them, please let me know. Thanks. Steve Zauss zausser@ix.netcom.com
Here's an answer from Mel Corley, Brandon,MS Corley650@aol.com. I fixed my "Whistle" by spraying WD-40 down the horn and letting it soak for about an hour. (Don't rush the soaking time.) Then I took the whistle apart and freed the impellers. (If the "C" clips that hold in the impellers are really eaten up with rust, you will have to find new clips.) Once I cleaned it up, it went "woop woop" again. Good luck. Mel
2. I'm looking for seat covers for my 1929 Murray Town Sedan 155A. Ford used to sell seat covers for this car but I would settle for anything that looks like a seat cover that fits well! Any ideas or help? I have real good (excellent) original seats and upholstery and I want to keep them clean and neat! Please let me know any ideas you have. Steve Fried SFried409@aol.com
Installed a rebuilt engine which had a new clutch and trans attached. I have clutch chatter in first gear and reverse, at all times, no problem shifting to 2nd or 3rd gear and no slipping of clutch in any gear. I have inspected the pressure plate with a mirror and do not see any oil ... the bell housing appears to be dry. I can not or do not know how to inspect the clutch disc for any oil. I have not seen any oil dripping from the hole in the bell housing. My plan was to remove the clutch/tran and inspect.That is a lot of work. A friend said to check the motor mounts (front and rear). I have and they appear to be O.K. Any thoughts or suggestions before I disassmble would be appreciated. Thanks. Bob Bryant, 820 Foxcroft Trail, Marietta, GA 30067. 770/952-9064. rebryant@juno.com
Here's a followup from from Bob - Problem solved. I received several suggestions. It turns out I had more vibration than clutch chatter. My friend Chris Sprottee suggested I rework all motor mounts and wishbone attachment. This I did ... Model "A" now runs real good !!
Over the past few months, I've noticed a worsening front end shimmy. It first began about a year ago, but is now most prominent when I apply the brakes (around 10-15mph) to a full stop. Also, I've noticed a bit more play in the steering wheel. So which is the best plan of attack: brakes vs. steering? Being not much of a mechanic, I would need a bit of coaching. I have many of the Model "A" repair books and a old Dyke's Repair Manual from 1940 with a good section on Model "A" repair.
As ever, thanks. This Cyberspace forum has been most helpful!! Anthony A. Gal agal@emory.edu
Here's an answer from Bob East - "Anthony, I recently read about another Model A'er who had a shimmy problem that was due to one of his inner front wheel bearing not seating deep enough into the wheel hub. He solved the problem by using a 1/8" thick washer between the inner bearing & the spindle. Other causes are worn balls on the steering spindle arms and pitman arm. Replace the balls or weld them up and file back to round shape. Also check for loose or worn tie rod & drag link ends. Try using the teflon replacement seats, they work very well, but be sure the balls are not rough, or they're tear them up. The Model A Ford Club of America has several volumes (5) full of info like this, they're a big help. They've also got a WWW page at http://www.mafca.com. Check it out. Good luck!" Bob East
I was just wondering if anyone has sucessfully fitted an air conditioning system on a Model "A"? If so, any info would be appreciated. I have a 1931 Standard Coupe, stock except for an alternator and modern points. Bob Braaten bbraaten@mailhost.wlc.com
Answer -- A detailed article by John Hargrave, "Model 'A' Air Conditioning", appeared in the MAR/APR 1992 issue of The Restorer. You can also contact Davis Model "A" Parts, 4600 Jim Mitchell W., Colleyville, TX 76034 (1-800/252-1928), to see if they still offer the mounting bracket kit for installing the Sankyo A/C unit in a Model "A." (JY)
The body to frame wood on my '31 Tudor has rotted and I would like to replace it with steel tubing. I don't know if replacement wood kits are pricey, but I think steel tubing would be a more permanent solution. Would anyone be able to give me some of the dimensions of the necessary pieces? Or, are there any good books out there that give you the dimensions without having to purchase a kit? Thanks. Jeff Giesbrecht, jgiesbr@ee.umanitoba.ca
My husband and I own a 1931 Model A Tudor. We take it out frequently. Lately, when we return at the end of our trip and let it sit overnight, the next morning the battery is dead. This happened even after we installed a kill switch!
Any ideas on what could be causing it? The battery is only 2 years old. Any help would be appreciated. Margy Mills mmills@telebit.com
Does anyone know of any Ford Flathead V-8 clubs??? I just picked up a '51 Ford Shortbed with the Flathead V-8. Always wanted one, now I need to start the restoration -- just as soon as it cools down in Phoenix, that is! Thanks for the help. Layne R. Slapper layne@juno.com
I finally got my '31 Ford Panel out of storage in Tucson, Arizona and decided to sell it. How may I set a fair selling price for such a rare model. It's driveable! Scott Robinson ssr@laneta.apc.org
I know that this is a controversial subject, but what type of engine oil is best for the Model "A" Ford? My car underwent a mechanical restoration more than 20 years ago and has accumulated about 4000 miles. Some folks strongly advocate non-detergent oil so that the dirt will fall to the bottom. Others swear by using modern detergent oil: some recommend a straight 30W and others a multigrade. What has been your experience? Anthony Gal agal@emory.edu
Here's a response from John de Sousa jhdeso@ccmail.monsanto.com
Here in the east, most of us are using 10W-30 in our Model "A's." With the ever changing weather here in New England, we've found that this multigrade oil has proved to be the best. Change your oil about every 500 miles and don't use any additives. With an added filter, you can go longer between oil changes. Be sure to use a filter that filters all the oil.
I have a 1930 Town Sedan and recently rebuilt the engine. I also rebuilt the starter and generator. Before I rebuilt the generator, the charging rate at about 40 MPH was around 8 amps with the lights OFF. Now after installing new brushes I can't get the rate lower than 15-20 amps with the lights OFF. I have moved the third brush in the opposite direction of rotation but this still doesn't help. I can get it to charge even more if the third brush is moved in the direction of rotation.
I've done some reading on generators and found that new brushes must be shaped. I placed very fine sand paper on the commutator and achieved the correct shape and have full contact. One other note, I've replaced the cut-out by installing a diode in the old housing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Craig Cianci ccianci@soho.ios.com
I have a 1931 Model "A"Ford Slant Window Town Sedan which had been restored some twenty plus years ago. For the most part, the car has held up very well and shows minimal wear. It sat in a collection for most of the past two decades and was driven very little. Since I've owned it, I've had a few minor things to repair or replace: it's generally a good solid car.
My main reason to write is to inquire about some problems that I occasionally have with the carburetor. (It was "looked at" by a very reliable mechanic two years ago who has since passed away). Occasionally when starting the car I have to "hit" the side of the carburetor to either get gas into it or prevent gas from flooding into it. Often when climbing an incline, I get a strong whiff of gas. A collegue suspected that the float is not quite right and suggested to lower the float by adding gaskets to the needle valve. I am somewhat afraid to touch the carburetor because for the most part it works well. What should I do?
I would appreciate any suggestions or comments from others who have experience with this situation. Contact Anthony A. Gal at agal@emory.edu
Here's a reply from Bob Johnson 02663@sainet.saiwest.saintl.com
Your problem would appear to be the valve (jet) that allows the gas to enter the float bowl. If it is broken or dirty, it can stick. If it is sticking, then a rap on the side of the carburetor will free it and allow gas to flow into the float bowl. The cause of the gas smell when you go up a hill might be due to the float not shuting off the gas float to the float bowl. This also can be due to a broken or dirty valve. You should take apart the carburetor and check the valve and the "seat" that it closes on.
The gas smell could also be due to the float not being adjusted correctly. You do not have to add gaskets to adjust the float. You can adjust it by carefully bending it. If you bend it down then it will shut off sooner and less gas will be stored in the float bowl. Be careful not to bend it too much or you will not have enough gas in the float bowl. If you bend it up, the gas level in the float bowl will be higher. I test the float by using water, gasoline is dangerous. Only use water when the carburetor is off the engine and dry it completly before you put it back on the engine.
My Dad just bought a 1935 Ford with the original flathead V-8. He needs to know where the engine number is located to transfer the title. Can anyone help? Thank you. Rick at rick_nicky@earthlink.net
Engine Specification
I have so far been unsuccessful in trying to find the distance between the crankshaft center and camshaft center to be used with standard size timing gears. I am planning to build a boring bar to install modern shell insert bearings in the Model "A" Ford block.
I do not trust the various holes that some of the rebuilder's using babbit bearings locate off of. Many of these rebuilders end up using non-standard timing gears. There must be a Ford design specification for the above distance or maybe someone has the pitch diameter for both the crankshaft and standard camshaft timing gear. Contact Adrian Haemmig at jhaemmig@gv.net or at (916) 272-1950.
Has anyone restored a front spring? I've sandblasted and painted the leaves but can't decide if I should assemble it dry or with a lubricant. I'm more interested in driving than showing. Tom Boergert. (boergert@interserf.net), Spotsylvania, VA
Here's a reply from Craig Cianci ccianci@soho.ios.com
I've placed teflon tape between the leaves and it works great.
What type of modern plugs should you use to run a Brumfield high-compression head and are spark plug adapters required? Joop and Marlies Plaggenborg (mplaggen@fdc-invest.com), 30 Riverview Drive, Ashland, MA 01721. 508/881-8751
Here's the response from Larry Brumfield, manufacturer of the Brumfield Hi-Compression head. "My cylinder head takes the standard 7/8 - 18 spark plug, and an adapter must be used if a spark plug with a different thread is used such as a 14mm. However, I see no reason to use an adapter because there are still new plugs available that are made for the Model "A" and are reasonably priced. The original Champion 3 X plug is also available, but it is expensive. The following are available for a reasonable price:
"If a person does not want to use the standard thread, I can supply my head with threads cut for any plug they might desire. I can also supply my head not tapped, and the customer can cut their own threads. If a person does desire to use adapters and plugs that were not specifically made for the Model "A," it would be wise to conduct a heat range test to determine the correct plug."
Thanks for the help, Larry. (Check out Larry's article on Model "A"hi-compression heads in The Reference Library.)
For additional information on the Brumfield Hi-Compression head, contact:
Brumfield
P.O. Box 5598
Waco, TX 76708
Telephone/FAX 1/817-753-1081
I was thinking about changing the rear motor mounts in my "A" to another type to give me a smoother ride as claimed. Several Model "A" owners have advised me against the change.
According to them, the reason for the original ridged rear motor mounts in the "A" is to act as an additional cross member in the frame adding strength. I've heard that motors have moved back and in one case the frame twisted. What is the real truth about the rear motor mounts?
E-mail John de Sousa at jhdeso@ccmail.monsanto.com
Wanted: Information for fixing a Bob Green overdrive. It has a worn out chain sprocket. E-mail Wally Franklin at Camel772H@aol.com
Wanted: Information from Model "A"owners who run a Mitchell overdrive. Tell us your experience with it and does it fit a Victoria? Joop and Marlies Plaggenborg (mplaggen@fdc-invest.com), 30 Riverview Drive, Ashland, MA 01721. 508/881-8751
Here's some further information on the Mitchell from Joop and Marlies: "We bought one and installed it in our Cabriolet and absolutely love it!!! We were out driving last weekend and it simply purrs! No free-wheeling, no clicking of switches, it's a breeze to drive, in fact now we take turns driving it as I like it so much too! If anyone needs any advise or tips, let us know!" and ... " We've measured the Vicky and have come to the conclusion that the Mitchell will not fit, which is unfortunate because we love it so much. We have a Borg-Warner on the Vicky and are relatively happy with it. Actually it is fine, but once you've tasted champagne (the Mitchell); soda water (the B-Warner) is less palatable!!"
Here's a response from Steve Pargeter, who's installed a Mitchell in his 1930 Tudor Sedan - "One member of my local club installed a Mitchell in a '31 Cabriolet without problems. He has a Vicky and is going to install one in it. There is a concern among some people with cars having an indented rear floor area that it might be a problem. No first hand info but it doesn't look like a problem to me. I think it will fit all years due to its' low profile. It only sticks up about 1 inch above the torque tube. "
Thanks for the input, Steve. MODEL A TRADER magazine will be featuring an article on installing the Mitchell Overdrive later this Fall. Written by Steve Pargeter, and complete with close-up photos, this is one article you won't want to miss if you're considering an overdrive for your "A."
Is it really necessary to have shocks on your Model "A?" And what purpose do they have?
I have shocks on my Model "A" and I personally believe that the car handles better. Talking with other Model "A" owners, I get mixed opinions with the majority believing that they don't do much at all unless you're driving 60 miles per hour and go over a set of railroad tracks. Who's correct?
I was told by several old time Model "A'ers" that rebuilt shocks only last for several 1000 miles and then they're not functional any longer and you'll never know it, so why have them. Thanks.
E-mail John de Sousa at jhdeso@ccmail.monsanto.com
Here's an answer from Wally Franklin:
I am restoring a 1928 original pickup - basketcase! It still has 2 of the original shocks on it and they are still in working order. This means that after 68 years, they still seem okay. I once had a Coupe without shocks and on a bumpy, curvy road, the wheels would bounce off the ground and slide all over the place. After installing new shocks, the car held the road quite nicely on the same road. As for riding in summer months, I set the shock to a stiffer adjustment, and a looser adjustment in the winter. If you don't have any leaks, and plenty of resistance, the shock is still good. Does anyone out there know if Henry made a tool for checking shocks?
E-mail Wally Franklin at Camel772H@aol.com
I have a question about the sizes of the license plates for the years 1928,1929, 1930 and 1931 here in Illinois.
It seems that when I put up hangers for some of the 1930 plates and lined the hangers up vertically, there was a discrepancy in the horizontal mounting holes in the (Illinois) license plates. Not only didn't the holes match, but one set of plates was actually about 2" shorter in their length. The question is: "why is their a difference in the same year of manufacture"? I'm starting a collection of Illinois license plates and would like to obtain as much information about them as possible. E-Mail Bill Kimmitt at kimmitt@misslink.net
Here's the answer from Bill's brother, Bob (his source was not identified). The length of the plate was dependent on the length of the number -- a shorter series of numbers got the shorter plates. So much for standardization! Thanks for the help, Bob.
Here's a Help Line request from Jim Moffat, one of our magazine subscribers who's not on-line. Jim needs help with the sheet metal on his 1930 Tudor Sedan. If you're familiar with this particular body style and think you might be able to answer some of Jim's questions, call him collect at 412/469-1718 or E-mail your phone number to us and we'll pass it along to Jim. Thanks.
We've received several inquiries (and heard several rumors) about a 5-speed conversion for the Model "A" transmission. The unit is supposedly made somewhere in Texas and sells for around $550.00. Any information on this conversion would be greatly appreciated. A related rumor concerns the use of a 1973-1976 Ford Ranger transmission which can be bolted directly to the Model "A's" bell housing. If you can supply any information about either of these "mystery" transmissions, please drop us a line at matrader@modelatrader.com. Thanks
I have a '29 Model "A" that runs great. However, the transmission leaks a great deal from the very back end. Can you recommend a good repair manual or tips on how to repair this? Pehaps some modern day seals that would assist in keeping the gear oil inside the tranny? Thanks. Layne Slapper, Glendale, AZ. E-mail to layne@juno.com
Here's an answer from Bob Gay at NU-REX...
"Frequently, severe transmission leaks can be traced to using the wrong lubricant. 90W gear oil is most commonly used by mistake. The ONLY correct lube is 600W oil. A very heavy clinging, molasses like, oil available from most Model "A" dealers at approx. $3.75 quart. Another transmission leak remedy is a Transmission Shaft Seal. It is an after market device that covers the transmission shaft ends with a seal to prevent seepage from the shafts. Snyder part #A7111-S, Bratton part #A7112. Approx. $16.00.
These two products should reduce/stop most leaks."
I need a way to sucessfully remove the rear brake drums on a 1930 AA rear end. If you think you have an idea that will work, call me. Chris Hitchcock, 216/247-5767 (6-9 PM) or send E-mail to matrader@cybergate.net and it will be forwarded.
Here's an answer from Keith Ernst of Tired Truck Restorations in Orwigsburg, PA. Keith says that KR Wilson has a tool ( Part. No. AATA-9) for removing the rear hub from the "AA" Timken truck axle. NAPA also lists a heavy duty universal wheel hub puller (Part No. SER2251) which should also work but Keith has not personally checked it out.
Here's another approach from Steve Schmauch schmauch@batcon.org. "If it is driveable, back the brake adjustment all the way off, loosen the castle nut on the ends of the axle shafts a few turns, then drive around the block, getting out frequently to see if the drums have moved outward toward the new position of the loosened axle nuts. When this happens, you know the drum is working its way off!"
I'm looking to repair the speedometer in a 1930 Tudor. The speed scale "can" is located on top of the magnet wheel which turns the "can." How is the magnet attached to the cup on top of the speed shaft? Now, I could use an epoxy to fix the magnet to the shaftcup BUT I don't think that's how it's done. Thanks for the help. Corley650@aol.com
I have had a persistant problem maintaining valve adjustment in my rebuilt engine. Valve to tappet clearance of valves #1 and #6 increases by .010 or more within 300 miles after readjustment. These valves, along with several others, were difficult to adjust because the doublenut tappets did not rise enough out of their bosses to effectively tighten.
A method was found to solve that problem and I have verified that they are not loosening up. It seems that there must be accelerated wear on one of the valve train components. Does anyone have experience with this problem? Is the wear most likely coming from the valves (stainless), tappets (supposed to be hardened USA manufacture) or the cam (supposed to be reground to standard)? Have I overlooked another source? HELP!!. Please respond to GDAQUILINA@aol.com
Can you tell me if the webbing around the edges of the floor boards was mitre cut on the corners where it's tacked to the bottom of the board? The webbing I have measures 2" in width.
My second question is this: The previous owner had sprayed a red oxide primer on both new floorboards. What can I put over the red primer to get the correct dull black preservative look? Ken Smith ad262@dayton.wright.edu
Here's an answer from Gerald Aquilina, GDAQUILINA@aol.com. I used ZAR Wood Stain #135 Charcoal on my floorboards. It gave a color that I feel is close to the original preservative. It also provides excellent protection. It was applied on new floorboards from Bratton's (excellent quality and fit). If a previous coating exists on the boards it may have to be removed for the stain to penetrate properly.
Do anyone know of any source books or ? that contain information on the smaller regional Model "A" assembly plants in the U.S.A. and Canada? I'm especially interested in the Tilbury, Ontario plant. Ford Canada doesn't have any info on this site. The Henry Ford Museum (most helpful) supplied me with a list of books that may have something. Has anyone heard of this plant or know someone who has? Bob Braaten bbraaten@wlc.com
I have an extra Pickup bed (including the tailgate). The bed is missing one side because of a scavenger hunt, but everything else is there including the rear crossmember "U". Everything is solid, but it has some surface rust.
The other item is a brand new quart can of Delstar Acrylic Enamel. The color is "Straw" (#DARO81184) The fellow that I bought this Pickup from was going to have his wheels painted "Straw" because he liked the color. I'm painting my 1930 Closed Cab Pickup wheels Black so I don't need the can of "Straw" paint.
Can anyone suggest a ballpark price for these items? Thanks. Ken Smith at ad262@dayton.wright.edu
At the risk of sounding like a heretic, Does anyone have any information on the Shay Replicar of the '29 Model A Roadster built in 1980 on a Ford Mustang chassis with the small four cylinder Mustang engine? The manufacturer's plate says The Model T and Model A Motor Car Reproduction Corporation. Thanks. John Drury jdrury@giveblood.org
Does anyone know the "traditional" colors of the three running board fluid cans ie., oil, water and gasoline for the Model "A"? Please email your answer. Regards, Dave Stoner DD1990@aol.com
I am getting ready to start a friend's 1930 Model "A" Pickup for the firsttime in about 5 years. My biggest concern is the gas tank it has been empty during that time. The filler neck is starting to rust. I can't see past the screen in the bottom to inspect the rest of the tank but I suspect it is rusting also. My question is, is there a treatment or a bladder for these tanks to eliminate the rusting problems. Jim Potter japotter@camcomp.com
I have completed installation of new glass in my '28 Tudor. My question is that the glass sits about 1/4 inch from the edge of the body and doors on the exterior. I note that a seal is made for the interior, part No. A-19008-A, C, which installs under the garnish molding on the inside of the car. However, there appears to be nothing to prevent the water from running down the window on the outside and collecting at the bottom of the doors and body pannel. Does anyone know what type of seal was used on the exterior between the inside edge of the reveals and the glass to prevent water from draining inside the car? Robert Kane rkane@freeway.net
The radiator shroud on my 1930 Murray Sedan has a few dings and small tears, but otherwise is in good shape. Does anyone have experience making their own repairs of this sort? I am primarily interested in knowing if the shroud can be welded. If so, what alloy of Mig wire and type of gas are most appropriate? Finally, does anyone know of a company or individual that restores the shrouds? Thanks for any help. Doug Handran dhandran@mindspring.com
I'm currently restoring a 1930 Model "A" Tudor, It has the original fenders that have been worked over through the years, but are in pretty bad shape. How is the quality of the repo fenders( front / rear) that are available through the bigger mail order catalog companies. One catalog puts a detailed description of the quality and others simply list the part. Is there one manufacturer to go with or avoid than others? Or should I just go with fiberglass. Any help would be appreciated. Mark Boczulak BOCZULAK@concentric.net
I am doing an amatuer restoration on a late 1931 Tudor. It has a bad oil leak at the rear main. The engine has been overhauled by a previous owner and runs strong. When I removed the oil pan to check things out, I noticed the oil drain tube from the rear main was missing. Could this contribute to the oil leak? W. Kunz, Jr WKunzjr@aol.com
I would like to have some info on a Briggs Coupe body that I have. The Briggs tag # is 166-4240. Is the body the same as the Ford made Coupe? Dennis Baker dbaker@netstarcomm.net
I have repaired the keyway on several shafts by welding and remachining. If the taper on the shaft is good this works as well as a new axel and only requires a little clean up. However, we are running out of rear hubs. I could recut the keyway if I knew the taper type to make a mandrel. Does anybody have that information? One book on Model "A"'s shows the taper but it is wrong! Thanks, Fred Engelman eesfred@airnet.net
The holes in the axle that are drilled for the spring perches are not centered, they are offset. Can you tell me why and which direction the axle is installed on the car? Does the offset go to the front or the rear? Daniel B. Ward dward2@bellsouth.net
What's the trick on adjusting the valves on my '31 sedan. Brought engine back to life last Feb. after sitting for 15 years. Now tool around town with it but feel as though valve train is noisy. Are valves adjustable? I took valve cover off and don't see any adjusting nuts on the tappets. I know that adjustable tappets are sold. Are they adviseable?
I can not readily determine if my engine noise is valves or a connecting rod. At regular runing speeds all seems well. At certain, speeds it sounds as if there is a valve out of adjustment. There is a metallic type tap, not really a rod knock. Never worked on these old "A's" before but am into it...help me before the engine blows?????? Mark Dellaratta DELAFAX@webtv.net
I need to know the proper way to " TIN " a block before pouring main bearings. I have used a large soldering iron along with the welding torch and acid-core solder. Is there a better way? If not what should I do to get rid of the acid. I have had good results with the acid-core but I worry about the long term effects of the acid. I fool with engines as a hobby. I am retired and have poured a little babbit along the way. Ben Jenkinson brjenk@sccoast.net
Looking for any information re garding the Shay reproduction of the '29 Model "A" Roadster Pickup truck. This was produced in the late 70's, early80's, and sold through Ford dealers? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Harry J Klimek tamagrouchy@earthlink.net
I have a question on making my '31 Cabriolet set level. I have adjusted the rear spring several times with the "U" clamps. Drive it or push down on the bumper and it will not stay level. What do I do next? Thanks for the help. "Happy new Year" zeke zeke@sktc.net
I own a 1929 Briggs Fordor Leather Back. Does anyone have any information on how many were made? Are they considered rare, since I do not see any at the rallies or car shows? Thanks, T. Foush. TFous1929@aol.com
Answer: Since posting the question, information supplied by "Ford Chroncile" indicates that the 60-B Leatherback made in 1929 was less that 3.4% of that years production which indicates a rare model. Tfous1929@aol.com
I am looking for a Model "A." The last vehicle I owned was a 1930 Sedan that I sold in 1978. My current plan is to locate a vehicle close to the Northeast Ohio area. My budget for a running vehicle that requires added restoration: $5000 to $8000. Please advise if I am in the ballpark with this price range. Also, if anybody has some leads, please send them my way. Many thanks. Dick Krzys krzysrm@apk.net
What is involved with swapping in a flathead V-8 into my Model A Ford? Thanks, Lou Pascuzzi economy.signs@snet.net
I would like to know if there is a set of gears out there that will give 50 to 55 mph? I do not want to install an OD or an OD transmission. I do not want to change the appearance, only the drivability. I know there are 3:54 and cast high compression heads which I probabl;y would need. The question is - can I use the cast head to provide the power needed to overcome the lower ratio gears? I am assuming I have 3:78 gears but I was told that a 4:11 was also available at the time. Without disassembling everything, how can I be sure I have 3:78? I know that the ratio is stamped in the housing, but what if someone changed the gears? What is the ratio of crank to rear wheels in say third gear? Tom Overbaugh, Trumansburg, NY 14886 kdo@interserv.com
I cannot get the rear brake drums over the brake shoes. I have new wheel seals and brake springs. Do I keep the brake drum and hub separate, or do they need to be together? If they need to be separate, how do I separate them? The brake shoes have been off over a year, can they swell? If you have an answer for me, e-mail me at geraldine.d@usa.net
I need to find information on whether there is such a thing as the "Doodle Bug Club." Can anyone help me? Thank you, Frank Brady, Norwich, NY. Please reply to suptncs@norwich.net.
I need the modern Timken part number for a Model "A" front spindle bearing (king pin). I'm trying to get just the bearing locally so I can get back on the road ASAP. Thanks! Bob East be3@mail1.nai.net.
Inside the top irons on my '29 Phaeton, there is a "cardboard like" material that accepted the tacks that held on the top. It is now a bit less firm than it should be. Is there anything I can do to firm it up? If I do have to replace this material, what with, and how? Any thoughts or observations are appreciated. Mark Sullivan marksull@uconnvm.uconn.edu